How to carve a relief of Ancient Greek Acanthus, taught online

How to carve a relief of Ancient Greek Acanthus is mostly drawing. You draw the leaf full size on the board, cut a line around the outside, drop the background, then shape the lobes from the high point down. The Greek leaf sits shallow and it holds a stiff, formal shape, so the layout decides the carving long before the mallet does.

I have been cutting this leaf for years and the first hour never changes. A pencil and a board. The gouges stay in the rack.

A lot of you land here after typing Carving fundamentals and techniques into a search box. Reasonable. So before you judge anybody's course, here is the leaf and the order the cuts happen in.

How to carve a relief of Ancient Greek Acanthus starts with a pencil

Get the leaf onto the wood at finished size. A pencil, a board, and about twenty minutes before any steel comes out of the rack.

Drawing the leaf yourself teaches your hand the sweep before any tool arrives. When the line is somebody else's, your hand has no opinion, and the grain will punish that.

The box comes first. A rectangle, a line down the middle, two arcs. Build the leaf on top of that.

Why draw it full size when Carving fundamentals and techniques can hand you a pattern?

Take the pattern, carve it, and then draw that leaf from nothing until it stops being hard.

I was sixteen when I started my apprenticeship with a fine art master in Russia, and the thing he beat into me was not how to hold a chisel. Design was never about paper. It is the laws of space and rhythm, and what the tool will allow. He taught me to think like a tool. Forty years on, it has not moved.

A shape comes from the pattern. The reasons come from drawing. Very few people go and get the second half. A printed sheet is usually the very first thing Carving fundamentals and techniques will hand you.

Is the Greek acanthus the same leaf as the Roman one?

Same plant. Not the same leaf. Greek stays narrow and pointed, Roman opens and curls and goes deep.

I was teaching in person at a woodworking school when a man came up to me after class. He said nobody had ever put acanthus to him that way. For him, acanthus meant the thing he had seen a hundred times on Chippendale chairs, and that was the end of it.

The differences are small on paper and enormous under a gouge, so they get their own courses. Carving Greek Acanthus Leaf runs 16 lessons. Carving Roman Acanthus Leaf runs 17. There is a Corinthian one at 7 lessons, a Byzantine one, and one built from a design somebody drew in 1903.

Watch for it and you will see it everywhere. I went down to St. Augustine in Florida, the oldest city in the country, and walked around the old fort, Castillo de San Marcos. Cannons. Cast iron, sitting outside for three hundred years. On a gun barrel, of all places.

A short answer to "How to carve a relief of Ancient Greek Acanthus"

There are six steps and five concern depth. Wrong order costs you a lobe and an evening.

1. Draw the leaf full size, on the wood itself.
2. Cut a stop line right on the outline with a V-tool. The line stays, the cut goes next to it.
3. Take the background down to one even depth. Every corner of it, and only then start shaping.
4. Rough the big masses. The highest point comes first and governs the others.
5. Model the pipes and the eyes. The shape comes alive under the gouge.
6. Undercut the edges. Last. Leave it late or lose a lobe.

The leaf is usually lost at step two or three. They shape before the ground is flat, and then the ground can never be flattened without eating the shape they just made.

The honest answer to "How to carve a relief of Ancient Greek Acanthus" is that list, repeated until your hand stops needing it.

How many gouges do you need before day one of Carving fundamentals and techniques?

Three is enough. One shallow gouge, one deeper, one V-tool. A mallet helps your wrist.

Sharp always beats costly. I have watched a man with one honed chisel outwork a room full of people holding four hundred dollar sets, and it was not close. Sharpening is the skill that takes years. Nobody enjoys that sentence, so it goes near the front, before you pay a cent to Carving fundamentals and techniques.

The wood is where your money should go. Basswood, lindenwood, limewood, whatever your part of the world calls it. Try a construction two by four and you will wreck your edges and give up by Thursday. Proper wood is not cheap, and pretending it is would be a lie. You have to be real.

So. Shall we carve?

What the wood decides for you

Basswood is patient, oak is not, and a leaf of thin lobes means half your cuts go against the grain anyway.

Teaching wood, in other words. The fibers are short and even, so a lobe that runs the wrong way still slices instead of tearing out. Red oak will hand you back a splinter as long as your thumb.

Later, when your hand knows the leaf, move to walnut. Walnut remembers what basswood forgave. By then you can afford the argument.

What should Carving fundamentals and techniques show you before you pay for it?

Ask to see the layout stage, not the finished leaf. The part nobody puts in the trailer.

A finished leaf photographs well and proves nothing. You learn everything about a teacher while nothing is being cut. Put that test to Carving fundamentals and techniques, mine included.

Also worth asking. Does the course go all the way to the end, including the parts that go wrong? And can you see the tool in the cut, close, at the angle the carver sees it?

Ten minutes of anything you found under Carving fundamentals and techniques will tell you whether it can really answer "How to carve a relief of Ancient Greek Acanthus".

The School of Woodcarving is a 501(c)(3) non-profit. Tuition is $25 a month and it opens all 48 courses and 621 lessons, the whole library, not one corner of it. It renews automatically every month and you can stop it whenever you like. Part of what comes in goes to orphans and widows, which is the part I care about most.