Looking for Advanced studies in wood carving school?
How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus, taught online
How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus is mostly drawing. You lay the whole leaf out on the wood, cut a line around it, remove the background, then work the lobes down from the tallest one. The Greek leaf sits shallow and it holds a stiff, formal shape, so the layout decides the carving long before the mallet does.
After all these years with this leaf, the first hour is still the same. A pencil and a board. The tools stay on the wall.
A lot of you land here after typing Advanced studies in wood carving school into a search box. Makes sense. So first, here is the leaf and the order the work has to go in.
How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus starts with a pencil
Pencil goes on the wood itself, at carving size. Tape a sheet on top instead and you have skipped the only part that teaches you anything.
A leaf you draw yourself teaches your hand the curve before the gouge ever touches it. Copy a line and you learn the shape but not the reason, and the grain will find that out fast.
Box, center line, arcs. In that order, and the leaf builds itself off them.
Why draw it full size when Advanced studies in wood carving school can hand you a pattern?
Keep the pattern. Then draw the same leaf freehand, again and again, until you stop reaching for it.
I was sixteen when I started my apprenticeship with a fine art master in Russia, and the thing he beat into me was not how to hold a chisel. Design was never about paper. It is the laws of space and rhythm, and what the tool will allow. He taught me to think like a tool. My courses have never left that idea.
A pattern gets you a shape. Drawing it yourself gets you the reasons. You need both, and most people stop after the first one. A printed sheet is usually the very first thing Advanced studies in wood carving school will hand you.
Is the Greek acanthus the same leaf as the Roman one?
One plant, different leaves. Greek is narrow, Roman is broad and folded, and the Roman one is much deeper work.
A man waited until the room emptied at a woodworking school, then came over. He said nobody had ever put acanthus to him that way. For him, acanthus meant the thing he had seen a hundred times on Chippendale chairs, and that was the end of it.
The differences are small on paper and enormous under a gouge, so they get their own courses. Carving Greek Acanthus Leaf runs 16 lessons. Carving Roman Acanthus Leaf runs 17. There is a Corinthian one at 7 lessons, a Byzantine one, and one built from a design somebody drew in 1903.
Nobody warns you how far this leaf travels. I went down to St. Augustine in Florida, the oldest city in the country, and walked around the old fort, Castillo de San Marcos. Cannons. Cast iron, sitting outside for three hundred years. Cast into the iron, the same leaf.
A short answer to "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus"
Six steps, five of them about depth. Take them out of order and you will hunt a lobe that is no longer there.
- Draw the leaf full size, on the wood itself.
- Cut a stop line right on the outline with a V-tool. Stay a hair outside the line.
- Take the background down to one even depth. Everywhere, before a single lobe gets shaped.
- Rough the big masses. Start high and come down in stages.
- Model the pipes and the eyes. The shape comes alive under the gouge.
- Undercut the edges. Last. Rush this and you lose a tip.
Nearly everybody stumbles on two and three. They shape before the ground is flat, and then the ground can never be flattened without eating the shape they just made.
The honest answer to "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus" is that list, repeated until your hand stops needing it.
How many gouges do you need before day one of Advanced studies in wood carving school?
Three is enough. One shallow gouge, one deeper, one V-tool. A mallet helps your wrist.
The sharp tool wins, whatever it cost. I have watched a man with one honed chisel outwork a room full of people holding four hundred dollar sets, and it was not close. Sharpening is the skill that takes years. It is not what anyone wants, so I say it now, before you pay a cent to Advanced studies in wood carving school.
Spend it on the board, not the steel. Basswood, lindenwood, limewood, whatever your part of the world calls it. A construction two by four will destroy your edges and your patience. Good wood costs money, and I will not pretend it does not. You have to be real.
Well then. Shall we carve?
What the wood decides for you
Basswood forgives you. Oak does not. The acanthus is built out of long thin lobes running in every direction, so half of them will be cutting against the grain no matter how you set the board down.
Nobody picks it for looks. The fibers are short and even, so a lobe that runs the wrong way still slices instead of tearing out. That cut in red oak tears out a thumb of wood.
Later, when your hand knows the leaf, move to walnut. Handsome stuff, and it catches every lazy stroke. By then you can afford the argument.
What should Advanced studies in wood carving school show you before you pay for it?
Ask them for the drawing stage. Skip the finished piece. You want the part where somebody explains why the line sits there.
A finished leaf photographs well and proves nothing. Layout is where you find out whether somebody actually knows this. Put that test to Advanced studies in wood carving school, mine included.
Two more questions to ask. Does the course go all the way to the end, including the parts that go wrong? And can you see the tool in the cut, close, at the angle the carver sees it?
Ten minutes of anything you found under Advanced studies in wood carving school will tell you whether it can really answer "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus".
The School of Woodcarving is a 501(c)(3) non-profit. Tuition is $25 a month and it opens all 48 courses and 621 lessons, the whole library, not one corner of it. It renews automatically every month and you can stop it whenever you like. A part goes to orphans and widows. That is the reason I keep doing this.
Frequently asked questions
Can a beginner carve the Greek acanthus?
Yes, and it is a better first ornament than most. The leaf is shallow, the shapes are large, and there is very little undercutting. Start with a panel about 6 by 8 inches.
Do I need the pattern, or can I draw my own?
The course comes with the full size pattern as a download, so you have it either way. Use it for the first leaf. Draw the second one yourself.
What wood should I use for a Greek acanthus leaf?
American basswood, or lindenwood and limewood if that is what your country sells. Avoid construction pine, and leave oak alone until the leaf is familiar.
How long does one leaf take?
Two or three evenings is normal for a first leaf. The drawing is often the longest part of it.
Where is the school?
Online. You watch and carve at your own bench, at whatever hour suits you, so there is nothing to drive to. Alexander also teaches in person at woodworking schools through the year.
What is the short version of "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus"?
Draw it full size, cut a stop line on the outline, drop the background to one even depth, then shape the lobes tallest first and undercut them last.
Who teaches these lessons?
Alexander Grabovetskiy, a master carver and International Woodcarver of the Year, who has been carving for over forty years.