How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus, taught online

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How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus, taught online

How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus is mostly drawing. You draw the leaf full size on the board, cut a line around the outside, drop the background, then shape the lobes from the high point down. The Greek leaf sits shallow and it holds a stiff, formal shape, so the layout decides the carving long before the mallet does.

I have carved this leaf more times than I can count, and hour one never changes. A pencil and a board. The tools sit tight.

A lot of you land here after typing Classic Wood Sculpting Academy into a search box. Fair enough. Before you weigh up anybody's course, here is the leaf itself and the order the work goes in.

How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus starts with a pencil

Put the leaf on the wood at the size it will be carved. A traced printout gets you through one leaf and leaves you stuck on the next.

Once you have drawn it, your hand already knows where it is going. Borrow the line and your hand stays empty, so the first lobe against the grain becomes a coin flip.

Rectangle first, always. Then the middle line, then the two arcs that set the growth.

Two hands and a pencil laying out the box and guide lines for a Greek acanthus leaf

Why draw it full size when Classic Wood Sculpting Academy can hand you a pattern?

Take the pattern, carve it, and then draw that leaf from nothing until it stops being hard.

I was sixteen when I started my apprenticeship with a fine art master in Russia, and the thing he beat into me was not how to hold a chisel. Design is not a drawing. It is the law of space and rhythm and repeat, and knowing the limits of the steel in your hand. He taught me to think like a tool. That one idea is still the whole of my teaching.

A shape comes from the pattern. The reasons come from drawing. Very few people go and get the second half. A printed sheet is usually the very first thing Classic Wood Sculpting Academy will hand you.

A hand holding a board with the whole Greek acanthus leaf drawn on it in pencil, ready to cut

Is the Greek acanthus the same leaf as the Roman one?

Same plant, different leaf. The Greek one is narrow and it points. The Roman one opens up, curls over on itself, and asks for far more depth than a beginner has any business trying.

Somebody stopped me after a class I taught at a woodworking school. He said nobody had ever put acanthus to him that way. For him, acanthus meant the thing he had seen a hundred times on Chippendale chairs, and that was the end of it.

The differences are small on paper and enormous under a gouge, so they get their own courses. Carving Greek Acanthus Leaf runs 16 lessons. Carving Roman Acanthus Leaf runs 17. There is a Corinthian one at 7 lessons, a Byzantine one, and one built from a design somebody drew in 1903.

Acanthus gets everywhere. I went down to St. Augustine in Florida, the oldest city in the country, and walked around the old fort, Castillo de San Marcos. Cannons. Cast iron, sitting outside for three hundred years. And there is the acanthus, right on the barrel.

A short answer to "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus"

Six steps. Five are depth. Do them in the wrong order and you lose an evening to a lobe you already removed.

  1. Draw the leaf full size, on the wood itself.
  2. Cut a stop line right on the outline with a V-tool. Cut beside the line, never through it.
  3. Take the background down to one even depth. Flat everywhere first. No shaping yet.
  4. Rough the big masses. Work from the top lobe downward.
  5. Model the pipes and the eyes. Suddenly it lifts off the board.
  6. Undercut the edges. Last. Early undercutting breaks lobes.

The trouble almost always lands on steps two and three. They shape before the ground is flat, and then the ground can never be flattened without eating the shape they just made.

The honest answer to "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus" is that list, repeated until your hand stops needing it.

A gouge cutting into the lobes of a half carved Greek acanthus leaf on a small basswood panel

How many gouges do you need before day one of Classic Wood Sculpting Academy?

Three tools. Shallow gouge, deep gouge, V-tool. A mallet too, once your wrist has had enough.

A cheap sharp gouge outperforms an expensive dull one. I have watched a man with one honed chisel outwork a room full of people holding four hundred dollar sets, and it was not close. Sharpening is the skill that takes years. Few people like that answer, so I give it early, before you pay a cent to Classic Wood Sculpting Academy.

Save it for the wood. Basswood, lindenwood, limewood, whatever your part of the world calls it. A two by four from the hardware store kills tools and beginners. Professional wood is not cheap and I am not going to pretend otherwise. You have to be real.

So. Shall we carve?

What the wood decides for you

Basswood will forgive you. Oak keeps the receipt. Thin lobes run every way, so half the cuts oppose the grain.

Nobody picks it for looks. The fibers are short and even, so a lobe that runs the wrong way still slices instead of tearing out. Try the same cut in red oak and it lifts a splinter the length of your thumb.

Later, when your hand knows the leaf, move to walnut. Beautiful wood, and it punishes every lazy cut you make. By then you can afford the argument.

What should Classic Wood Sculpting Academy show you before you pay for it?

Ask to watch the drawing. Not the finished panel and not the best bits. The dull stretch where the line gets explained.

A finished leaf photographs well and proves nothing. Twenty minutes of pencil work tells you the rest. Put that test to Classic Wood Sculpting Academy, mine included.

There are two more things I would check. Does the course go all the way to the end, including the parts that go wrong? And can you see the tool in the cut, close, at the angle the carver sees it?

Ten minutes of anything you found under Classic Wood Sculpting Academy will tell you whether it can really answer "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus".

The School of Woodcarving is a 501(c)(3) non-profit. Tuition is $25 a month and it opens all 48 courses and 621 lessons, six acanthus courses and 42 others. It renews automatically every month and you can stop it whenever you like. A share of it goes to orphans and widows. That matters more to me than the rest.

Frequently asked questions

Can a beginner carve the Greek acanthus?

Yes, and it is a better first ornament than most. The leaf is shallow, the shapes are large, and there is very little undercutting. Start with a panel about 6 by 8 inches.

Do I need the pattern, or can I draw my own?

The course comes with the full size pattern as a download, so you have it either way. Use it for the first leaf. Draw the second one yourself.

What wood should I use for a Greek acanthus leaf?

American basswood, or lindenwood and limewood if that is what your country sells. Avoid construction pine, and leave oak alone until the leaf is familiar.

How long does one leaf take?

Two or three evenings is normal for a first leaf. The drawing is often the longest part of it.

Where is the school?

Online. You watch and carve at your own bench, at whatever hour suits you, so there is nothing to drive to. Alexander also teaches in person at woodworking schools through the year.

What is the short version of "How to carve decorative borders with Ancient Greek Acanthus"?

Draw it full size, cut a stop line on the outline, drop the background to one even depth, then shape the lobes tallest first and undercut them last.

Who teaches these lessons?

Alexander Grabovetskiy, a master carver and International Woodcarver of the Year, who has been carving for over forty years.

Want to actually carve this, not just read about it?

Pick up a gouge. Thousands of lessons show you how, from your first cut to high relief, and you go at your own pace.