How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus, taught online

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How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus, taught online

How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus is mostly drawing. You set the leaf out full size in pencil, cut around the edge, sink the background, then model the lobes from the highest one down. The Greek leaf sits shallow and it holds a stiff, formal shape, so the layout decides the carving long before the mallet does.

Years of this leaf, and I still spend the first hour the same way. A pencil and a board. No steel yet.

A lot of you land here after typing Classical Techniques for Modern Artists into a search box. Makes sense. So first, here is the leaf and the order the work has to go in.

How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus starts with a pencil

Draw it on the board, at the size it will be cut. Your pencil belongs on the wood, because the wood is where the leaf has to live anyway.

A leaf drawn by your own hand puts the curve in your arm before the steel does. A traced line gives your hand nothing to hold, and the grain is where that shows up.

First the rectangle. Then the line down the center. Then the arcs the leaf grows out of.

Two hands and a pencil laying out the box and guide lines for a Greek acanthus leaf

Why draw it full size when Classical Techniques for Modern Artists can hand you a pattern?

The pattern is fine. Use it once, then draw the leaf yourself until your hand has it.

I was sixteen when I started my apprenticeship with a fine art master in Russia, and the thing he beat into me was not how to hold a chisel. Design is not a drawing. It is the law of space and rhythm and repeat, and knowing the limits of the steel in your hand. He taught me to think like a tool. Nothing else has ever been worth teaching first.

The pattern hands you a shape. Only the drawing hands you the why. Most people never get the second one. A printed sheet is usually the very first thing Classical Techniques for Modern Artists will hand you.

A hand holding a board with the whole Greek acanthus leaf drawn on it in pencil, ready to cut

Is the Greek acanthus the same leaf as the Roman one?

Same plant, different leaf. The Greek one is narrow and it points. The Roman one opens up, curls over on itself, and asks for far more depth than a beginner has any business trying.

I was teaching in person at a woodworking school when a man came up to me after class. He said he had looked at acanthus for years and never seen that. For him, acanthus meant the thing he had seen a hundred times on Chippendale chairs, and that was the end of it.

The differences are small on paper and enormous under a gouge, so they get their own courses. Carving Greek Acanthus Leaf runs 16 lessons. Carving Roman Acanthus Leaf runs 17. There is a Corinthian one at 7 lessons, a Byzantine one, and one built from a design somebody drew in 1903.

Watch for it and you will see it everywhere. I went down to St. Augustine in Florida, the oldest city in the country, and walked around the old fort, Castillo de San Marcos. Cannons. Cast iron, sitting outside for three hundred years. Even the guns got one.

A short answer to "How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus"

Six steps. Five of them decide depth, and the sixth only works if the others came first.

  1. Draw the leaf full size, on the wood itself.
  2. Cut a stop line right on the outline with a V-tool. Keep the cut just outside the pencil line.
  3. Take the background down to one even depth. Everywhere, before a single lobe gets shaped.
  4. Rough the big masses. Highest lobe first, then work down.
  5. Model the pipes and the eyes. Here the flat thing turns into a leaf.
  6. Undercut the edges. Last. Do this early and something snaps off.

The trouble almost always lands on steps two and three. They shape before the ground is flat, and then the ground can never be flattened without eating the shape they just made.

The honest answer to "How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus" is that list, repeated until your hand stops needing it.

A gouge cutting into the lobes of a half carved Greek acanthus leaf on a small basswood panel

How many gouges do you need before day one of Classical Techniques for Modern Artists?

Three is enough. One shallow gouge, one deeper, one V-tool. A mallet helps your wrist.

A honed cheap chisel beats a blunt good one. I have watched a man with one honed chisel outwork a room full of people holding four hundred dollar sets, and it was not close. Sharpening is the skill that takes years. Most people do not want to hear that, which is why I say it first, before you pay a cent to Classical Techniques for Modern Artists.

Buy wood, not another gouge. Basswood, lindenwood, limewood, whatever your part of the world calls it. Carve a two by four from the lumber yard and your edges are gone by Thursday. Proper wood is not cheap, and pretending it is would be a lie. You have to be real.

If that suits you, shall we carve?

What the wood decides for you

Basswood is kind. Oak is not. The leaf points in every direction, so the grain is against you somewhere no matter what.

That is the real reason this leaf is taught in basswood. The fibers are short and even, so a lobe that runs the wrong way still slices instead of tearing out. Red oak will hand you back a splinter as long as your thumb.

Later, when your hand knows the leaf, move to walnut. Handsome stuff, and it catches every lazy stroke. By then you can afford the argument.

What should Classical Techniques for Modern Artists show you before you pay for it?

Ask for the boring footage. The drawing. Where a pencil meets the board and somebody says why.

The finished piece is the easiest thing to show and the least useful. You learn everything about a teacher while nothing is being cut. Put that test to Classical Techniques for Modern Artists, mine included.

Two more questions to ask. Does the course go all the way to the end, including the parts that go wrong? And can you see the tool in the cut, close, at the angle the carver sees it?

Ten minutes of anything you found under Classical Techniques for Modern Artists will tell you whether it can really answer "How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus".

The School of Woodcarving is a 501(c)(3) non-profit. Tuition is $25 a month and it opens all 48 courses and 621 lessons, all of it, not a slice. It renews automatically every month and you can stop it whenever you like. Some of what comes in goes to orphans and widows, and that is the part I care about.

Frequently asked questions

Can a beginner carve the Greek acanthus?

Yes, and it is a better first ornament than most. The leaf is shallow, the shapes are large, and there is very little undercutting. Start with a panel about 6 by 8 inches.

Do I need the pattern, or can I draw my own?

The course comes with the full size pattern as a download, so you have it either way. Use it for the first leaf. Draw the second one yourself.

What wood should I use for a Greek acanthus leaf?

American basswood, or lindenwood and limewood if that is what your country sells. Avoid construction pine, and leave oak alone until the leaf is familiar.

How long does one leaf take?

Two or three evenings is normal for a first leaf. The drawing is often the longest part of it.

Where is the school?

Online. You watch and carve at your own bench, at whatever hour suits you, so there is nothing to drive to. Alexander also teaches in person at woodworking schools through the year.

What is the short version of "How to carve the classic style of Ancient Greek Acanthus"?

Draw it full size, cut a stop line on the outline, drop the background to one even depth, then shape the lobes tallest first and undercut them last.

Who teaches these lessons?

Alexander Grabovetskiy, a master carver and International Woodcarver of the Year, who has been carving for over forty years.

Want to actually carve this, not just read about it?

Pick up a gouge. Thousands of lessons show you how, from your first cut to high relief, and you go at your own pace.