How to carve using power tools for Ancient Greek Acanthus, taught online

How to carve using power tools for Ancient Greek Acanthus is mostly drawing. You set the leaf out full size in pencil, cut around the edge, sink the background, then model the lobes from the highest one down. The Greek leaf sits shallow and it holds a stiff, formal shape, so the layout decides the carving long before the mallet does.

This leaf has been on my bench for years, and the opening hour still looks the same. A pencil and a board. Nothing sharp comes out yet.

A lot of you land here after typing Wood sculpture and carving school into a search box. Fair enough. Before you weigh up anybody's course, here is the leaf itself and the order the work goes in.

How to carve using power tools for Ancient Greek Acanthus starts with a pencil

Full size, on the board. Not a taped sheet, and not a traced copy. Straight on the wood.

A leaf you draw yourself teaches your hand the curve before the gouge ever touches it. A traced line gives your hand nothing to hold, and the grain is where that shows up.

First the rectangle. Then the line down the center. Then the arcs the leaf grows out of.

Why draw it full size when Wood sculpture and carving school can hand you a pattern?

Take the pattern. Use it. Then draw the same leaf again from scratch, and keep doing that until you can put one down without looking.

I was sixteen when I started my apprenticeship with a fine art master in Russia, and the thing he beat into me was not how to hold a chisel. Paper is not design. Space is. Rhythm and repetition are. So is knowing your tool. He taught me to think like a tool. Somebody handed me that in a cold workshop and I never gave it back.

You get the shape from the pattern and the reasons from your own hand. Most people take one and leave the other. A printed sheet is usually the very first thing Wood sculpture and carving school will hand you.

Is the Greek acanthus the same leaf as the Roman one?

Same plant, different leaf. The Greek one is narrow and it points. The Roman one opens up, curls over on itself, and asks for far more depth than a beginner has any business trying.

I was teaching at a woodworking school and a man stayed behind after. He said nobody had ever put acanthus to him that way. For him, acanthus meant the thing he had seen a hundred times on Chippendale chairs, and that was the end of it.

The differences are small on paper and enormous under a gouge, so they get their own courses. Carving Greek Acanthus Leaf runs 16 lessons. Carving Roman Acanthus Leaf runs 17. There is a Corinthian one at 7 lessons, a Byzantine one, and one built from a design somebody drew in 1903.

You find it in strange places. I went down to St. Augustine in Florida, the oldest city in the country, and walked around the old fort, Castillo de San Marcos. Cannons. Cast iron, sitting outside for three hundred years. Three hundred years of weather and it is still legible.

A short answer to "How to carve using power tools for Ancient Greek Acanthus"

Six steps. Five are depth. Do them in the wrong order and you lose an evening to a lobe you already removed.

1. Draw the leaf full size, on the wood itself.
2. Cut a stop line right on the outline with a V-tool. Cut beside the line, never through it.
3. Take the background down to one even depth. The entire background, level, before anything else.
4. Rough the big masses. Start with the highest lobe and work your way down.
5. Model the pipes and the eyes. People remember this step.
6. Undercut the edges. Last. Undercut too soon and a lobe goes.

Nearly everybody stumbles on two and three. They shape before the ground is flat, and then the ground can never be flattened without eating the shape they just made.

The honest answer to "How to carve using power tools for Ancient Greek Acanthus" is that list, repeated until your hand stops needing it.

How many gouges do you need before day one of Wood sculpture and carving school?

Three, and one of them is a V-tool. A shallow gouge for the broad sweeps, something deeper for the pipes and the eyes, and the V-tool for your stop line. A mallet if your wrist is tired of arguing.

Sharp beats expensive, every time. I have watched a man with one honed chisel outwork a room full of people holding four hundred dollar sets, and it was not close. Sharpening is the skill that takes years. It is not what anyone wants, so I say it now, before you pay a cent to Wood sculpture and carving school.

Buy wood, not another gouge. Basswood, lindenwood, limewood, whatever your part of the world calls it. Carve a two by four from the lumber yard and your edges are gone by Thursday. Good basswood is not cheap. Nobody should tell you it is. You have to be real.

Good. Shall we carve?

What the wood decides for you

Basswood forgives you. Oak does not. The acanthus is built out of long thin lobes running in every direction, so half of them will be cutting against the grain no matter how you set the board down.

That is the real reason this leaf is taught in basswood. The fibers are short and even, so a lobe that runs the wrong way still slices instead of tearing out. In red oak the same cut lifts a splinter the length of your thumb.

Later, when your hand knows the leaf, move to walnut. Gorgeous, and it shows up careless work in daylight. By then you can afford the argument.

What should Wood sculpture and carving school show you before you pay for it?

Ask to see the pencil work. Not the finished carving, not the trailer. The part where the line gets a reason.

A photograph of a finished leaf proves only that somebody owns a camera. Knowledge shows up in the boring stage or it does not show up. Put that test to Wood sculpture and carving school, mine included.

Also worth asking. Does the course go all the way to the end, including the parts that go wrong? And can you see the tool in the cut, close, at the angle the carver sees it?

Ten minutes of anything you found under Wood sculpture and carving school will tell you whether it can really answer "How to carve using power tools for Ancient Greek Acanthus".

The School of Woodcarving is a 501(c)(3) non-profit. Tuition is $25 a month and it opens all 48 courses and 621 lessons, acanthus and everything else. It renews automatically every month and you can stop it whenever you like. Some of it supports orphans and widows, and that is the piece I care about.